Roses have captivated humanity for centuries with their beauty, scent, and soothing properties. In perfumery, roses are more than just a romantic symbol they are a cornerstone ingredient that enhances both fragrance and wellbeing. Known for their uplifting, balancing, and comforting effects, roses bring more than elegance to a scent; they offer emotional and sensory benefits that promote calm and joy.

In Perfumery the soft, floral notes of rose have been associated with lifting mood and reducing stress especially in anxiety and emotional tension. Inhaling rose-based scents can lower the heart rate and induce feelings of calm and serenity. Rose oil is often used in aromatherapy for centring emotions. Wearing rose-scented perfumes or using rose-infused products can have a positive effect on a person’s self-esteem.

 The earliest known use of roses in perfumery and wellbeing can be traced back to ancient Persian, Egyptian, and Chinese cultures, though the Persians are often credited as the pioneers of rose cultivation and distillation for perfumery. Roses were associated with beauty, love, luxury, and healing across nearly all these ancient cultures.

 

Using Roses for Health and Wellbeing

Ancient Persia: Persia is widely regarded as the birthplace of rose distillation. The famous Avicenna (Ibn Sina), a Persian physician in the 10th century, is credited with developing the steam distillation process to extract rose essential oil and rose water. This discovery revolutionized both perfumery and medicine. Rose water and rose oil were used to treat heart conditions, digestive problems, and skin ailments. Roses were highly prized in Persian gardens.

Ancient Egypt: Roses were used in religious ceremonies and for embalming to mask odours. Roses were used in skin treatments and believed to have rejuvenating properties.

Ancient China: Roses were used in traditional medicine and often associated with beauty, health, and harmony.  Rose flowers were used to stimulate digestion and soothe menstrual discomfort; roses were associated with feminine beauty and harmony.

Roman Empire:  The Romans were lavish with rose petals, using them for celebrations, baths, and perfumed oils. They also imported rose water and oil from the Middle East, which became a symbol of luxury and power. The Romans bathed in rose-scented water, wore rose perfumes, and used roses to scent banquet halls and bedchambers. Wealthy Romans imported vast quantities of roses from Egypt and the Middle East. Roses were incorporated into poultices, tonics, and cosmetic balms

India Roses were used for their cooling, anti-inflammatory, and heart-calming effects. Rose water became a staple in Indian skincare, medicine, and spiritual rituals.
The Mughal emperors advanced the use of roses in attar and developed distillation methods.
Roses were used in offerings, garlands, and as a symbol of divine love. There are over 30,000 varieties of roses worldwide, with new hybrids being developed all the time. There are three categories:

1.   Species Roses: Wild roses with minimal human intervention.

2.   Old Garden Roses: Varieties that existed before 1867 (like Damask and Centifolia).

3.   Modern Roses: Hybridized varieties, such as Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, and Grandiflora.

 Making Scents: Roses

Not all roses are created equal in the world of fine fragrance. Only a small fraction of rose species are suitable for high-quality essential oil production, as most modern hybrid roses are bred for appearance rather than scent. Specific types of roses are y cultivated for perfumery, due to their rich, complex scent and high oil yield. The most prized varieties are:

Rosa Damascena (Damask Rose): Grown predominantly in Bulgaria’s Valley of the Roses and in Turkey, this rose is highly sought after for its rich, multi-layered scent with a perfect balance of sweetness and spice. This rose is used to produce rose otto and rose absolute.

Rosa Centifolia (May Rose): Often cultivated in Grasse, this variety is famous for its delicate, honeyed, and slightly peppery aroma. Its scent is softer and is powderier compared to the Damask rose. This rose is used to produce rose absolute.

Each of these roses is chosen not just for beauty, but for the complexity and longevity they bring to a fragrance. Bulgarian and Turkish roses typically form over 70% of the global essential oil market.

 The Art Behind the Scent

Rose harvesting is a labour-intensive and time-sensitive process.  The roses are harvested by hand at dawn when the essential oils are most concentrated. The flowers must be processed at once to preserve their delicate aroma.

There are different methods used to process the petals. The first distillation produces a rose essential oil and is known as "Otto". The second process solvent extraction is used to create rose absolute.  It takes around 3 to 5 tonnes of rose petals to produce one litre of rose essential oil, making it one of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery.

Due to the sheer volume of petals needed and the precision of harvesting, natural rose oil is among the costliest ingredients in the fragrance industry. Depending on purity and origin, the price of rose oil can range from £5,000 to £10,000 per litre. The cost is why many mass-market perfumes use synthetic rose accords, but in the niche and luxury fragrances they invest in the real thing.

In perfumery, the rose is not just a scent. It is an experience of luxury, balance, and emotional wellbeing. Whether you wear a rose-based fragrance or simply take time to enjoy its aroma, you are connecting to a tradition that nurtures the senses and uplifts the spirit.

 

Making Scents Workshops with At Balance UK

If you’re curious about the art of creating fragrances and want to immerse yourself in the world of scent, join our Making Scents workshops at At Balance UK

Learn how natural ingredients like roses are selected and blended. Create your own bespoke scent.   Discover the therapeutic power of fragrance and how it can support your emotional balance and wellbeing.

The workshops are perfect for groups, or special occasions,

Book your workshop now and start your scented journey with us
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Sources:

 Hongratanaworakit, T. (2009). Relaxing effect of rose oil on humans. Natural Product Communications, 4(2), 291–296.

Lawrence, B. M. (2007). Essential oils: History, production, and applications. Allured Publishing.